Sherpa Dumpling Clutch
As soon as I got a sneak peek of Lion Brand’s new Feels Like Sherpa last summer, I knew exactly what I wanted to make with it. In fact, I immediately ordered the purse frames that I would need to execute the project, even though I knew the yarn wouldn’t be available for months. I’ve been dying to design the Sherpa Dumpling Clutch for years, and now the perfect yarn has finally arrived and I made this dream a reality! Of course I couldn’t stop at just one, so I graded the pattern for three sizes, all available for free below. As always you can also purchase an ad-free, printer-friendly PDF here, or shop the full yarn kit here. Note that the kit does not contain the purse frame, but you can purchase one separately here.
There is something so chic about a clutch bag, no matter the size or shape. But my favorite is a floppy dumpling shape that feels both luxe and effortlessly cool. It’s runway ready but also totally suitable for the streets, and it looks fabulous with a fancy evening gown or a t-shirt and jeans!
I’ve seen several sherpa clutch bags that I absolutely loved over the years and always resisted buying them because I said to myself, “I could make that.” And I’m so thrilled that I was finally able to get this plan out of my brain and into my hands. The best part is that these bags work up so quickly, it only took me a few days to make all three samples after I’d spent an initial week or so working out the math and exact look I was going for.
I started with the largest size and worked my way down from there. I wanted something oversized (the maxi size) for drama, something perfectly practically sized (the medium size) for every day appeal, and something cute and compact (the mini size) for nights out when you don’t have much to lug around. I also wanted these to be extra dumpling-y, so I opted for four pleats per size along the top edge of the medium and maxi sizes to increase the gathered appearance. The mini only has two pleats per side, but since it’s so small it still has a nice gathered look.
This is an easy level crochet pattern and the techniques involved are single crochet, working in back and forth rows and joined, turned rounds, making pleats, and crocheting onto a purse frame.
MATERIALS
3 (4, 5) skeins Lion Brand Feels Like Sherpa (bulky, weight 5; 68yds/63m per 100g/3.5oz skein)
Shown in colors Sagebrush (161-178AJ) for mini size, Elmwood (161-123AC) for medium size, and Heather Grey (161-149AY) for maxi size
Size US L/11 (8mm) crochet hook
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
8 (10, 12)”/20.5 (25.5, 30.5)cm rectangle lock purse frame
GAUGE
8 sts + 9 rows = 4”/10cm in single crochet
FINISHED DIMENSIONS
Sizes: mini (medium maxi)
Length: 11 (18, 20)”/28 (46, 51)cm
Depth: 6.25 (6.25, 7)”/16 (16, 18)cm
Height: 6.75 (7.75, 9.5)”/17 (20, 24)cm
ABBREVIATIONS
*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms.
Ch(s) – chain(s)
LP – left pleat
Pm – place marker
Rep – repeat
Rnd(s) – round(s)
RP – right pleat
RS – right side
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
STITCH EXPLANATION
LP (left pleat) – worked over 9 sts; insert hook into the 1st st from front to back, then directly into the 6th st from back to front, then directly into the 7th st from front to back, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook to single crochet all three layers together; then insert hook into the 2nd st from front to back, then directly into the 5th st from back to front, then directly into the 8th st from front to back, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook to single crochet all three layers together; then insert hook into the 3rd st from front to back, then directly into the 4th st from back to front, then directly into the 9th st from front to back, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook to single crochet all three layers together. You can place markers on the 9 sts to be worked over prior to making the pleat to help better identify them.
RP (right pleat) – worked over 9 sts; insert hook into the 7th st from front to back, then directly into the 6th st from back to front, then directly into the 1st st from front to back, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook to single crochet all three layers together; then insert hook into the 8th st from front to back, then directly into the 5th st from back to front, then directly into the 2nd st from front to back, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook to single crochet all three layers together; then insert hook into the 9th st from front to back, then directly into the 4th st from back to front, then directly into the 3rd st from front to back, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook to single crochet all three layers together. You can place markers on the 9 sts to be worked over prior to making the pleat to help better identify them.
Notes on hardware: Find several options for each size purse frame here.
Notes on yarn: Fuzzy yarn can be a bit tricky to work with as the stitches are not visible
and you will need to “feel” for them. That being said, the fabric is very forgiving and mistakes are virtually impossible to see. Practice with a regular yarn to feel and understand where the hook should go, and then pay attention to – and feel for – the center of each stitch to help guide your hook into the right places. Carefully count your stitches with each row and round to ensure you have the correct stitch count as this is really what matters, not necessarily if the stitches are in the correct places.
Notes on pattern: Bag begins with a rectangular base worked flat in back and forth rows. The body is then crocheted around all four sides of the base and continues from the bottom up in joined, turned rounds. Finally, the body of the clutch is crocheted onto the frame. Turn at the end of each row and round. Pattern is written for three sizes: mini (medium, maxi).
For a tutorial demonstrating the techniques used in this pattern, please visit: https://youtu.be/H9hWf76l6kw
BASE
Ch 23 (37, 41).
Row 1 (RS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across row. (22 (36, 40) sts)
Tip: Place a marker at the end of each row to keep track of them so you don’t lose count.
Rows 2-14 (14, 16): Ch 1, sc across row.
Fasten off.
BODY
Rotate work so that the left side edge is now at the top. Rejoin yarn at the middle point of this edge by inserting the hook into a space along the edge and drawing up a loop.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1 and sc 6 (6, 7) evenly down the left side of this edge to the corner, rotate work to begin working across foundation ch, sc in each of the 22 (36, 40) chs across to the next corner, rotate work to begin working up side edge, sc 12 (12, 14) evenly up side edge to the next corner, sc 22 (36, 40) across last row of base to the next corner, rotate work to begin working down side edge, sc 6 (6, 7) evenly to 1st sc of rnd, sl st to 1st sc of rnd to join. (68 (96, 108) sts)
Tip: Place a marker on the first st of each rnd to identify it at the end of the rnd, and place a st marker at the end of each rnd to keep track of them so you don’t lose count. Remember to turn here and at the end of each rnd.
Rnds 2-12 (14, 18): Ch 1, sc around, sl st to 1st sc to join. Note: to keep “seam” straight, place 1st sc in the last sc of the previous rnd, not the sl st that joined the rnd. It can be difficult to determine where the last sc of the rnd should be placed, so count your sts on the first few rnds to ensure there aren’t any skipped or added as you get used to the placement.
Next rnd: Ch 1, sc 8 (6, 9), LP 1 (2, 2) time(s), RP 1 (2, 2) time(s), sc 9 (7, 10), pm on last (9th (7th, 10th)) st, sc 7 (5, 8), LP 1 (2, 2) time(s), RP 1 (2, 2) time(s), sc 8 (6, 9), sl st to 1st sc to join.
Do not fasten off. Turn work to begin a WS rnd.
Attach body to frame:
Hold the frame on top of the previous row. Bring the working yarn to the interior of the frame. Starting to the left of one side hinge, sc twice into each st, working over the frame as well, across to the marked st; then, sl st into marked st without working over the frame, and now working to the left of the opposite hinge, sc twice into each st, working over the frame as well, to the last st, sl st in last st without working over the frame.
Fasten off.
Secure and weave in all ends.
Purchase the printable, ad-free pattern here.
Purchase the kit from Lion Brand here.
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