It’s been so wonderful seeing all of the color combos everyone is selecting for the Genres MAL this past weekend and now I’m so happy to be releasing the free patterns for both wraps so you can start familiarizing yourself with the stitches! Video tutorials will be released throughout the make-along starting on our official launch date of March 10, but since these are intermediate level I thought it would be nice to view the patterns in advance in case there are any skills you want to brush up on. Scroll down for the free Book Club Wrap pattern, purchase a printer-friendly PDF of the pattern here, or purchase the kit with all the yarn you’ll need plus a PDF of the pattern here. PS purchasing the PDF pattern or the kit also gets you a free download of the welcome packet which includes all of the genres mood boards, calendar, quick links, and more in a nicely formatted PDF!

Looking for the knit version? Check out the Storyteller Wrap here.

Lastly, check back on March 10 when the first video tutorial for this project will be added to this blog post. In the meantime, focus on choosing your genre and color combo and gathering your supplies :) For the full MAL calendar with tutorial release dates, keep reading!

Ready to join the MAL? Have a look at our calendar:

February 20
Kits, welcome videos, and mood boards launch

February 24
Free patterns go live on the Two of Wands blog

March 10
Official start of the MAL; video 1 for both wraps goes live

March 17
Video 2 for both wraps goes live

March 24
Video 3 for both wraps goes live

March 31
Video 4 for both wraps goes live

April 7
Video 5 and ending options video for both wraps go live

April 11
That's a wrap - share your styling + book recs

In between you can expect color combo guidance, styling tips, and a lot of fun! Checking out everyone else's color combos and progress is always one of my favorite parts of a MAL like this.. If you’d like to join us, there’s no official way to sign up - simply connect with others on Instagram using the hashtags #BookClubWrapCAL #GenresMAL and/or share your projects in the Crew of Wands Facebook group.

Before we dive in, here are some important quick links for reference:

Sign up for the Two of Wands newsletter to get all updates sent right to your inbox.

Visit the MAL blog post at any time for all info and updates.

Watch the welcome video, color combining video, and all video tutorials for the Storyteller Wrap and Book Club Wrap on the Two of Wands YouTube channel.

Purchase a kit for the Storyteller Wrap or the Book Club Wrap which includes the pattern PDF and a free welcome packet with all of the mood boards, calendar, links, and more included.

View the blog posts for the Storyteller Wrap or the Book Club Wrap.

Purchase the printer-friendly PDF patterns for the Storyteller Wrap or the Book Club Wrap and get the free welcome packet with all of the mood boards, calendar, links, and more included.

Join the Crew of Wands Facebook Page to connect with other makers participating in the MAL. Here you can share your projects, get motivated, encourage others, and get technical support.

Follow along and post your WIPs and finished pieces on Instagram. Use the hashtags #GenresMAL #StorytellerWrapKAL #BookClubWrapCAL #TwoOfWands #CrewOfWands and tag @twoofwands @lionbrandyarn

After the success of the Color Theory Vista and Landscape Wraps CAL/KAL last summer, I knew I wanted to do something similar with Hue + Me. In fact, I had the idea to do this kind of thing with Hue + Me long before last summer’s CAL/KAL but I wanted to wait until I had the time to dedicate to it because I knew it would be a huge endeavor. The Hue + Me palette is currently 36 colors, which makes it difficult for me to give equal love to all of them, so I needed a way to highlight each of them and really showcase how they are truly mix-and-matchable. Using book genres was a no-brainer seeing as how so many crafters are also avid readers. I knew that the different genres would be a perfect way to add so much storytelling to this project because they each evoke a different mood I could capture with color.

Once I had the themes I needed to choose the perfect project. A wrap is my go-to for something like this for many reasons - 1) it’s a blank canvas that can be adorned with pretty much any colorwork or texture without the hinderance of shaping and needing to adhere to a specific stitch repeat like you would with a garment, 2) they don’t require grading or multiple sizes so everyone participating in the MAL has the same amount of work and therefore the timeline is universal, and 3) they make for the perfect personal project or gift since they can be so customized with the recipient’s favorite colors and once again, sizing is not an issue. My favorite construction for a wrap is a top-down, center-out triangle because I love the multiple ways to style it. If you’re a fan of this construction as well, check out some of my other favorite crochet wraps here:

The Book Club Wrap has some of the most elaborate textures and colorwork of any wrap I have designed. I really wanted these wraps to tell a story and include tons of symbolism and nods to the inspiration of books. I even changed some of the language and terms in the project to suit the inspo as well. For example, I’ve been referring to the main color as the main character and to the contrast colors as the supporting roles. I love these references because that’s exactly what colors are in a knit or crochet piece! Just like the perspective of the main character of a story really sets the tone, the same is true for the main character of your wrap. Changing main characters even with the same five-color combo can completely alter the overall look and mood of the wrap. Have a look at the gallery below - even in yarn form before any stitches are made, you can click through to see how the color proportion changes the composition as you switch main characters.

We start the wraps off by meeting our main character, then we get introduced to the supporting roles which mingle together in different combos to show their various relationships. These colorwork stripes were also inspired by stacks of books on a shelf in a library. Then all of the characters come together in a beautiful colorwork band toward the bottom of the wrap to represent the climax of the story, which is flanked by a series of wrapped stitches that are meant to represent book covers wrapping around the text. Finally, the wraps get topped off with one of three accent options - traditional fringe, twisted fringe, or tassels. You get to choose how your story ends!

One of my favorite parts of the MAL though has got to be the gorgeous color combos and their mood boards. I put together 35 curated options and pulled inspo to really set the mood of the genre they are inspired by so you can connect to the vibe as much as possible. I know 35 options sounds like a lot but did you know there are 376,992 ways to put together a five-color combo with the 36-color Hue + Me palette?! Trust me when I say narrowing that down to 35 was not for the faint of heart, lol. Since there are so many options, there may be a combo not represented in the 35 genres that you really want to use, and that’s ok too! There are no rules here! If you want to get some insight into all of the genres and mood boards and colors in the Hue + Me palette, check out my color combining video for the MAL here:

For my Book Club Wrap, I opted for the Contemporary Fiction genre. This genre is very difficult to define because it actually encompasses many others. It’s more like the “absence of a genre” which is why I gravitated to a mostly greyscale combo with Salt, Cement, Smoke, and Werewolf. As a nod to the “contemporary” component, I thought a pop of fresh color was in order and my go-to for that is always Grapefruit. It just so happens that several of my favorite Contemporary Fiction books have a similar color scheme going on!

This is an intermediate level crochet pattern, and the techniques involved are half double crochet, single crochet, drop double crochet, wrapped half double crochet, working into the front and back loops only, tapestry crochet, and changing colors. Once again, video tutorials will be added to this post throughout the course of the MAL so make sure to check back! If you run into trouble and need assistance, be sure to join the Crew of Wands Facebook page where those who use my patterns can share their projects, connect, and provide help to each other.

MATERIALS

3 skeins Lion Brand Hue + Me in Cement (617-149AV) for main color
1 skein each Lion Brand Hue + Me in Salt (617-098AS), Smoke (617-151Z), Werewolf (617-152AB), and Grapefruit (617-104P) for contrast colors 1, 2, 3, and 4
(bulky, weight 5; 137yds/125m per skein)

Size US L/11 (8mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle

GAUGE

8.5 sts + 7 rows = 4”/10cm in half double crochet

FINISHED DIMENSIONS

Width across top: 66”/168cm
Length to point: 33”/84cm

ABBREVIATIONS
*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms.

CC – contrast color
Ch – chain
Ch-sp – chain space
Ddc – drop double crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Hdc tbl – half double crochet through the back loop only
Hdc tfl – half double crochet through the front loop only
MC – main color
Rep – repeat
RS – right side
Sc – single crochet
Sc tbl – single crochet through the back loop only
Sk – skip
Sp – space
St(s) – stitch(es)
Whdc – wrapped half double crochet
WS – wrong side

STITCH EXPLANATION

Ddc (drop double crochet) – yarn over, insert hook into the front loop only of the stitch 2 rows below, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through first 2 loops on hook, then yarn over and draw through remaining 2 loops on hook.

Whdc (wrapped half double crochet) – yarn over, insert hook in space to the right of the previous 2 half double crochets from front to back and draw up a loop twice (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

Notes: Wrap is worked flat from the top down, increasing 4 sts on every row. Turn at the end of each row unless otherwise instructed. Pattern is composed of sections of half double crochet, colorwork stripes, single crochet stripes, wrapped stitches, and a colorwork band. All colorwork stripes and band rows are worked with the right side facing. At times, tapestry crochet will be used to carry the alternate to avoid weaving in extra ends. To do so, lay the unused color on top of the previous row and work over it with the current color. To change color at the end of a turned row, work the final yarn over of the last stitch of the previous row in the new color. Options for tassels, traditional fringe, and twisted fringe are all provided. Stitch charts can be found at the end of the pattern.

For color combo inspo, please visit https://www.twoofwands.com/blog/genres-mal

For video tutorials, please visit bit.ly/genresMALtutorials

PATTERN

With MC, begin with a magic loop.

Hdc section 1:

Row 1 (RS): Working into the loop, ch 3 (counts as 1 hdc + ch-1 sp here and throughout), hdc 2, ch 2, hdc 2, ch 1, hdc 1. (6 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp, + 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc in each st to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc in each st to last ch-1 sp, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (10 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Rows 3-6: Rep row 2, 4 more times. (26 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Colorwork stripe 1:

Change to CC1.

Row 7 (RS): Ch 1, sc 1 in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc in each st to center ch-2 sp, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in center ch-2 sp, sc in each st to last ch-1 sp, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (30 sc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Do not turn. Pull up on crochet hook to elongate the loop on the hook, then pass the skein of yarn through the loop and pull to tighten it, effectively fastening off. With RS still facing, lay the working yarn over the previous row and bring the skein over to the right side of the work. The next row will be worked over this yarn using tapestry crochet so that it will be available for use at the beginning of the following row. Alternatively, fasten off and cut CC1 – but you will need to rejoin it at the beginning of row 9 and it will add more ends to weave in if you do so. Keep RS facing to work next row. Join CC2 at beginning of row.

Row 8 (RS): Ch 1, sc 1 in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next st, sc tbl in each st to center ch-2 sp, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in center ch-2 sp, sc tbl in each st to 1 st before last ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next st, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc 1 in last st. (8 sc + 26 sc tbl + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Do not turn. Fasten off and cut CC2. Keep RS facing to work next row with CC1, which is now available for use at the beginning of the row. Adjust the length of CC1 under the previous row so that it isn’t pulling or puckering before beginning next row. Insert hook into 1st st of row and pull up a loop of CC1 to begin.

Row 9 (RS): Ch 1, sc 1 in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next st, *sc tbl 1, ddc 1, rep from * to last st before center ch-2 sp, sc tbl 1 in next st, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in center ch-2 sp, **sc tbl 1, ddc 1, rep from ** to 2 sts before last ch-1 sp, sc tbl 1 in next st, sc 1 in next st, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc 1 in last st. (8 sc + 16 sc tbl + 14 ddc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Do not turn. Fasten off and cut CC1.

Hdc section 2:

Join MC at beginning of row.

Row 10 (RS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc tbl in each st to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc tbl in each st to last ch-1 sp, hdc 1 in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc 1 in last st. (6 hdc + 36 hdc tbl + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 11 (WS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc in each st to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc in each st to last ch-1 sp, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (46 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Colorwork stripe 2:

Rows 12-14: Work as for colorwork stripe 1 rows 7-9, replacing CC1 with CC3 and CC2 with CC4. (8 sc + 26 sc tbl + 24 ddc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp at end of row 14)

Hdc section 3:

Rows 15+16: Work as for hdc section 2 rows 10 and 11. (66 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp at end of row 16)

Colorwork stripe 3:

Rows 17-19: Work as for colorwork stripe 1 rows 7-9, replacing CC1 with CC2 and CC2 with CC1. (8 sc + 36 sc tbl + 34 ddc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp at end of row 19)

Hdc section 4:

Rows 20+21: Work as for hdc section 2 rows 10 and 11. (86 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp at end of row 21)

Colorwork stripe 4:

Rows 22-24: Work as for colorwork stripe 1 rows 7-9, replacing CC1 with CC4 and CC2 with CC3. (8 sc + 46 sc tbl + 44 ddc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp at end of row 24)

Hdc section 5:

Rows 25+26: Work as for hdc section 2 rows 10 and 11. (106 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp at end of row 26)

Single crochet stripe 1:

Change to CC1 at beginning of row but do not cut MC. Using tapestry crochet, carry MC by placing it on top of the previous row and crocheting over it in the next row.

Row 27 (RS): Ch 1, sc 1 in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc in each st to center ch-2 sp, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in center ch-2 sp, sc in each st to last ch-1 sp, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (110 sc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Cut CC1 and continue with MC.

Wrapped stitches section 1:

Row 28 (WS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc in each st to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc in each st to last ch-1 sp, hdc 1 in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc 1 in last st. (114 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 29 (RS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, *sk 1, hdc in next 2 sts, whdc, rep from * to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, **hdc in next 2 sts, whdc, sk 1, rep from ** to 2 sts before last ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (118 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 30 (WS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, hdc 1 in sp before next wrapped bundle (technically the space under the next hdc), *hdc in next 2 sts that appear at the top of the wrapped bundle (technically the 2nd hdc and whdc of the bundle), hdc 1 in sp after the wrapped bundle (technically the sp under the 1st hdc of the bundle) rep from * to last st before center ch-2 sp, hdc 1 in next st, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc 1 in sp before next wrapped bundle (technically the space under the next hdc), **hdc in next 2 sts that appear at the top of the wrapped bundle (technically the 2nd hdc and whdc of the bundle), hdc 1 in sp after the wrapped bundle (technically the sp under the 1st hdc of the bundle), rep from * to 3 sts before last ch-1 sp, hdc in last 3 sts, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (122 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Colorwork band:

Change to CC2.

Row 31 (RS): Ch 1, sc 1 in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc in each st to center ch-2 sp, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in center ch-2 sp, sc in each st to last ch-1 sp, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (126 sc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Do not turn. Pull up on crochet hook to elongate the loop on the hook, then pass the skein of yarn through the loop and pull to tighten it, effectively fastening off. With RS still facing, lay the working yarn over the previous row and bring the skein over to the right side of the work. The next row will be worked over this yarn using tapestry crochet so that it will be available for use at the beginning of the following row. Alternatively, fasten off and cut CC2 – but you will need to rejoin it at the beginning of row 33 and it will add more ends to weave in if you do so. Keep RS facing to work next row. Join CC3 at beginning of row.

Row 32 (RS): Ch 1, sc 1 in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next st, sc tbl in each st to center ch-2 sp, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in center ch-2 sp, sc tbl in each st to 1 st before last ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next st, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc 1 in last st. (8 sc + 122 sc tbl + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Do not turn. Pull up on crochet hook to elongate the loop on the hook, then pass the skein of yarn through the loop and pull to tighten it, effectively fastening off. With RS still facing, lay the working yarn over the previous row and bring the skein over to the right side of the work. The next row will be worked over this yarn using tapestry crochet so that it will be available for use at the beginning of the following row. Alternatively, fasten off and cut CC3 – but you will need to rejoin it at the beginning of row 34 and it will add more ends to weave in if you do so.

Keep RS facing to work next row with CC2, which is now available for use at the beginning of the row. Adjust the length of CC2 under the previous row so that it isn’t pulling or puckering before beginning next row. Insert hook into 1st st of row and pull up a loop of CC2 to begin.

Row 33 (RS): Ch 1, sc 1 in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in next st, *sc tbl 1, ddc 1, rep from * to last st before center ch-2 sp, sc tbl 1 in next st, (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in center ch-2 sp, **sc tbl 1, ddc 1, rep from ** to 2 sts before last ch-1 sp, sc tbl 1 in next st, sc 1 in next st, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc 1 in last st. (8 sc + 64 sc tbl + 62 ddc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Do not turn. Fasten off and cut CC2. Keep RS facing to work next row with CC3, which is now available for use at the beginning of the row. Adjust the length of CC3 under the previous row so that it isn’t pulling or puckering before beginning next row. Insert hook into 1st st of row and pull up a loop of CC3 to begin.

Row 34 (RS): Rep row 33. (8 sc + 66 sc tbl + 64 ddc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Do not turn. Fasten off and cut CC3. Join CC4 at beginning of row.

Rows 35-41 (RS): Rep row 33, fastening off and changing colors as follows: Row 35 – CC4; Row 36 – CC1; Row 37 – CC2; Row 38 – CC3; Row 39 – CC4; Row 40 – CC1; Row 41: CC2.

Turn at the end of row 41. (8 sc + 80 sc tbl + 78 ddc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Wrapped stitches section 2:

Join MC at beginning of row.

Row 42 (WS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc tfl in each st to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc tfl in each st to last ch-1 sp, hdc 1 in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc 1 in last st. (170 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 43 (RS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, *sk 1, hdc in next 2 sts, whdc, rep from * to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, **hdc in next 2 sts, whdc, sk 1, rep from ** to last ch-1 sp, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (174 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Row 44 (WS): Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc 1 in sp before next wrapped bundle (technically the space under the next hdc), *hdc in next 2 sts that appear at the top of the wrapped bundle (technically the 2nd hdc and whdc of the bundle), hdc 1 in sp after the wrapped bundle (technically the sp under the 1st hdc of the bundle) rep from * to last st before center ch-2 sp, hdc 1 in next st, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc 1 in sp before next wrapped bundle (technically the space under the next hdc), **hdc in next 2 sts that appear at the top of the wrapped bundle (technically the 2nd hdc and whdc of the bundle), hdc 1 in sp after the wrapped bundle (technically the sp under the 1st hdc of the bundle), rep from * to 1 st before last ch-1 sp, hdc 1 in next st, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (178 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Single crochet stripe 2:

Work as for single crochet stripe 1. (182 sc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Hdc section 6:

Rows 46+47: Ch 3, hdc 1 in ch-1 sp, hdc in each st to center ch-2 sp, (hdc 1, ch 2, hdc 1) in center ch-2 sp, hdc in each st to last ch-1 sp, (hdc 1, ch 1, hdc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (190 hdc + 2 ch-1 sp + 1 ch-2 sp)

Fasten off. Block work. Secure and weave in all ends.

TASSELS

Cut 90 12”/30.5cm lengths of CC4 + six 18”/46cm lengths of CC3. Divide the 12”/30.5cm lengths into three groups of 30. Tie each bundle at the middle point with one of the CC3 18”/46cm lengths. Fold each bundle in half so that the tie is at the tip of the loop created with the fold.

Tie crosswise around each folded bundle about 1.5”/4cm below the top of the fold with the remaining CC3 18”/46cm lengths. Wrap the tails of the ties around and around the bundles and then thread them inside and down the middle of the bundles with a tapestry needle. Tie the tops of the tassels onto the three corners of the wrap and knot to secure. Thread the tails inside and down the middle of the tassels using a tapestry needle. Trim tassels to desired length.

TRADITIONAL FRINGE

Cut 384 18”/46cm lengths in your choice of colors. Holding two strands together at a time, attach fringe to each stitch along the bottom edge of the wrap using a larks head knot. To do so, fold the two strands in half and use the crochet hook to pull the folded loop through a space along the edge, then draw the ends of the strands through the loop to create the larks head knot. Trim fringe to desired length.

TWISTED FRINGE

Work as for traditional fringe. Treat each double strand as if it were one. Separate the four strands of one fringe bundle into two pairs of two. Twist each pair separately in the same direction that the yarn twists until it buckles easily when you give it a little slack. Then twist the two pairs together in the opposite direction, forming a rope. Knot at the end to secure. Rep across all fringe. Trim ends for a clean edge.

CHARTS

Purchase the printable, ad-free pattern here.

Purchase the kit from Lion Brand here.

Don't forget to share your projects made using Two of Wands patterns on Instagram with the hashtag #crewofwands to get featured on my page and be in the running for monthly pattern giveaways!

Join the Crew of Wands Facebook group to connect with other makers of Two of Wands patterns for help with techniques and pattern related questions.

The patterns and photographs of items on this site are the property of Two of Wands and are for personal, non-commercial use only. These patterns files are protected by US copyright, and you may not distribute or sell them electronically or physically. Small batch sales of finished pieces made from these patterns are permitted, but seller must use their own photographs and credit must be given to Two of Wands as the designer.