Rebozo Wrap
One of the best things about making hand knit and crocheted items is giving them away. And although the holidays may still seem far off, it's never too early to get started on handmade presents. As part of Lion Brand Yarn's "12 Weeks of Christmas" campaign, I've designed two pieces that make perfect gifts for your loved ones or wonderful additions to your own wardrobe. Knitters will love the elegant and speedy Affirmations Scarf, while crocheters will find meditative joy in this Rebozo Wrap. Scroll down for the free pattern, click here for the purchasable ad-free PDF.
Handmade gifts are the most special, heart-warming kind, and I had that in mind when I designed the Rebozo Wrap. In the yarn world we also hear so much about crafting as personal therapy, and this design has qualities that will suit either scenario. The meditative and repetitive stitches allow for a calming rhythm, and the color changes bring an excitement and sense of accomplishment with each row. I've been wanting to design a peace wrap for ages now, and this presented the perfect opportunity. The simple stitch pattern can be easily infused with a mantra of well wishes that you can repeat over and over as you build the wrap. The love and positive energy will be implanted in the piece and surely felt by the recipient.
The design elements of this wrap were inspired by the traditional Mexican rebozo - a multi-functional garment used for warmth, decor, and even carrying babies. I chose a three-tone linen stitch to mimic the woven pattern of the original rebozo, and added eyelet detailing and fringe to represent the macrame detail typically found at the ends of the wrap.
With the multi-functional concept of the rebozo in mind and the idea of creating a peace wrap for the recipient to be able to bundle up in, I knew I wanted this piece to be drapable enough to be worn as a scarf, and large enough to serve as more of a blanket-style wrap. I absolutely love the drape of my Tea House Wrap, so I chose to work with the same Heartland yarn by Lion Brand. It is silky and light and still manages to stay soft and flowy when crocheted. Even with an oversized piece like this, the resulting fabric is flexible enough to turn the wrap into a scarf without it being too overwhelming. This pattern is an easy+ level, and the techniques involved are single crochet, double crochet, recognizing and working into chain spaces, changing colors, and reading from a crochet chart.
MATERIALS:
1 skein Lion Brand Heartland in Mount Rainier or approx. 251yds/230m of another worsted weight, cat. 4 yarn for color A
1 skein Lion Brand Heartland in Great Smoky Mountains or approx. 251yds/230m of another worsted weight, cat. 4 yarn for color B
2 skeins Lion Brand Heartland in Crater Lake or approx. 502yds/460m of another worsted weight, cat. 4 yarn for color C
Size US L/11 (8mm) crochet hook
Size J/10 (6mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
FINISHED SIZE:
Width: 15”/38cm
Length: 73.5”/187cm
GAUGE:
13.5 sts + 14.5 rows = 4”/10cm in linen stitch with 8mm hook
14 sts + 7 rows = 4”/10cm in double crochet with 6mm hook
ABBREVIATIONS:
*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms*
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Rep – repeat
Sc – single crochet
Sk – skip
Sp – space
St(s) – stitch(es)
Note: Scarf body is worked first lengthwise in linen stitch, then eyelet panels are worked along each end widthwise. When changing colors on the body panel, work the last yarn over of the last stitch of the row in the next color. At the end of each row, simply drop the color just used and carry it up when it is next needed. Chart is included below for eyelet pattern on end panels.
Body:
With color A and larger hook, ch 192.
Row 1: Starting in 4th ch from hook, sc 1, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc 1, rep from * across row. (190 sts)
Change to color B.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp, rep from * across row.
Change to color C.
Row 3: Ch 2, sc in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp, rep from * across row.
Change to color A.
Row 4: Ch 2, sc in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp, rep from * across row.
Rows 5-55: Rep rows 2-4, changing colors as indicated.
Cut yarns. Secure and weave in all ends.
End Panels:
Note: A ch 2 is worked at the beginning of each row instead of the traditional ch 3 turning chain used in double crochet rows. This ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch and is used to keep the edges of the work straighter. All dc sts above eyelets are worked into the ch sp. Follow chart below for eyelet instructions.
Join color C at one end corner with smaller hook.
Row 1: Ch 2 and dc 51 evenly along the entire side of the work.
Row 2: Ch 2, dc 1, ch 1, sk 1, *dc in next 11 sts, ch 1, sk 1, rep from * to last st, dc 1 in last st.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc 1, *dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 9 sts, ch 1, sk 1, rep from * to last ch sp, dc 1 in last ch sp, dc 1 in last st.
Row 4: Ch 2, dc 2, *dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 7 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc 1 in next st, rep from * to last st, dc 1 in last st.
Row 5: Ch 2, dc 1, *dc in next 2 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc 1 in next st, rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts.
Row 6: Ch 2, dc 2, *dc in next 2 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 3 sts, rep from * to last st, dc 1 in last st.
Row 7: Ch 2, dc 1, *dc in next 4 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 3 sts, rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts.
Row 8: Ch 2, dc 2, *dc in next 4 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 5 sts, rep from * to last st, dc 1 in last st.
Row 9: Ch 2, dc 1, *dc in next 5 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 4 sts, rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts.
Row 10: Ch 2, dc 2, *dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc 1 in next st, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 4 sts, rep from * to last st, dc 1 in last st.
Row 11: Ch 2, dc 1, *dc in next 3 sts, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 3 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 2 sts, rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts.
Row 12: Ch 2, dc 2, *dc 1 in next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 5 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next 2 sts, rep from * to last st, dc 1 in last st.
Row 13: Ch 2, dc 1, *dc 1 in next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 7 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts.
Row 14: Ch 2, dc 1, ch 1, sk 1, *dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 9 sts, dc 1 in next ch sp, ch 1, sk 1, rep from * to last st, dc 1 in last st.
Row 15: Ch 2, dc 1, *dc 1 in next ch sp, dc in next 11 sts, rep from * to last ch sp, dc 1 in last ch sp, dc 1 in last st..
Cut yarn and weave in all ends.
Macramé Fringe:
Cut seventy-two 18”/46cm lengths of color C. Separate into 36 groups of two. Secure a group to every third stitch along the last rows of the eyelet panels using a lark’s head knot. To do so, fold the strands in half, and using smaller crochet hook, draw the folded loops through a stitch and then draw the ends through the loops, pulling to secure knot.
Separate the four strands coming out of each knot into two groups of two. Join adjacent groups of two and tie each new group of four strands together with an overhand knot. To do so, simply create a loop and draw the ends through. There will be two strands left hanging on each end.
Again separate the four strands coming out of each knot into two groups of two, and tie adjacent groups together with an overhand knot. The two strands left hanging at each end should now be joined back to their adjacent groups.
Trim ends to desired length.
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